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The doctor behind the formulas
Cosmetic dermatology · Founder, Epione Beverly Hills
Dr. Simon Ourian has spent more than three decades in cosmetic dermatology, most of it in one Beverly Hills practice he built himself. He read molecular biology as an undergraduate, took his medical degree at Wayne State University, and trained at UCLA — where laser and aesthetic work became the focus that has held ever since.
In 1998 he founded Epione, among the first centres in California given over entirely to non-invasive aesthetic treatment rather than surgery. The techniques he developed there, including the Coolaser and Coolbeam procedures, came out of the same instinct that shapes this range: work with the skin's own repair process rather than override it.
The formulas carry that thinking into a bottle. Each one is built around a small number of actives chosen for what they do at a specific depth in the skin — not for how they read on a label.
Undergraduate degree in molecular biology, medical degree from Wayne State University, residency training at UCLA — where an interest in laser and aesthetic medicine took hold.
Founded his own practice: one of the first centres in California dedicated entirely to aesthetic laser and non-invasive procedures rather than surgery.
Developed his own non-invasive resurfacing techniques, built on the principle of prompting the skin's repair response rather than stripping it.
The at-home range — the same formulation logic as the clinic, in a routine you run yourself.
Skin is not one surface but a stack of layers, and an active is only useful if it reaches the one it is meant to act on. That constraint — not trend, not marketing — is what decides the actives in every formula here.
Hold water in and reinforce the outermost barrier. This is where dryness and tightness are felt first, and where hyaluronic acid and lipids do their work.
Loosen the bonds between dead surface cells and regulate pigment and oil production. Salicylic acid works here, inside the pore lining.
Where free-radical damage from UV and pollution accumulates. Antioxidants act as a buffer rather than a repair.
Where collagen and elastin are produced. Retinoids and peptides signal to the cells that build them — which is why results here are measured in months, not days.
This diagram is a general guide to how ingredient classes behave in the skin, not a claim about any specific product's results. It is schematic and not drawn to scale. Individual results vary. If you have a skin condition, speak to a qualified professional.
Every additional active is another thing the skin has to tolerate. Formulas here are built around a few ingredients doing specific jobs, not a long label doing none of them well.
An active that cannot reach its target layer is decoration. Vehicle and concentration are chosen for delivery, not for what looks impressive on the box.
The most effective routine is the one that can actually be used daily. Strength is pointless if the barrier gives out in a fortnight.